The ferny bits/leaves are sterile but they and the shoots have a thick waxy coat which needs to be broken/ crushed in order to enable a weedkiller to be used. (Best results are likely to be obtained on actively growing weeds between 1st March and 30th September). The leaves/tails die off late autumn into winter but the roots remain waiting for spring.

The ferny bits/leaves are sterile but they and the shoots have a thick waxy coat which needs to be broken/ crushed in order to enable a weedkiller to be used. (Best results are likely to be obtained on actively growing weeds between 1st March and 30th September). The leaves/tails die off late autumn into winter but the roots remain waiting for spring.Careful, regular digging-out can be a first course of action, where this is possible. Undisturbed roots under paving slabs, other structures and dense fruit bushes need attention to prevent it creeping from one plot to another. Under no circumstance should infested ground be rotovated which will just make lots of new plants; nor should the weed be put into ones compost bins unless it is truly dead – completely drying out the roots & stems is best.

This weed has been around for 60 million years but with careful, patient management over a minimum of two seasons it can be controlled - on speaking to certain plotholders who have successfully, almost eradicated it from their plots. Raising soil fertility and improving drainage is key.

It is evident in some of the grass paths but regular mowing over a period of years – before it reaches more than about 5cm/2ins will help to exhaust the roots food supply and hopefully eliminate it.

Tenants of plots where this weed is particularly prevalent will be issued with advice on how best to tackle this problem weed.

Written up by Mary Fullerton/Expertise assistance from Ron Lees